214 West 42nd Street, New York, NY 10036 Q: What is the best availability for tickets? Weeknights are better than weekends; the further in the future you go, the better the availability. Q: Is the show appropriate for children? Its perfect for elementary school children and older. Children under 4 years are not permitted in the auditorium Q: What is the running time of the show? Approx. 2 hours & 45 mins with a 15 minute intermission Q: Are there devices for the hard-of-hearing?Available free-of-charge inside the lobby. Q: What time should I arrive at the theater? Doors open 45 minutes before show time. We recommend arriving at least 15 minutes before show time. Q: Are there concessions inside the theatre?Soft drinks, water, cocktails, candy & show merchandise (no food). No food is allowed into the theatre. Q: Can I smoke in the Theater? No smoking in the theatre; patrons may go outside during intermission Q: Can I take photgraphs of the show?

Absolutely NO recording devices are allowed in the theatre, including still cameras Please note: The term New Amsterdam Theater as well as all associated graphics, logos, and/or other tradermarks, tradenames or copyrights are the property of the New Amsterdam Theater and are used herein for factual descriptive purposes only. We are in no way associated with or authorized by the New Amsterdam Theater and neither that entity nor any of its affiliates have licensed or endorsed us to sell tickets, goods and or services in conjunction with their events.Opening TimesClub and Box level opens two and a half hours before kick off and the lower and upper levels open two hours before kick off. This is our aim but due to a number of reasons we cannot always achieve this. Text Service On match days we offer a text service for supporters to quietly report problems within their area. The categories which can be reported are foul language, racist language, homophobic language, standing and ticket touting.

Full details can be found in the match day programme. No Smoking at Emirates Stadium We would like to kindly remind all supporters that smoking is not permitted anywhere within Emirates Stadium. This includes the use of electronic cigarettes. This not only includes the 'bowl' inside the stadium, but all other areas including toilets, concourses, stairwells, bars and restaurants. We would also like to remind supporters that unfortunately there is no re-admittance to Emirates Stadium, should any supporter wish to exit the stadium in order to smoke. We appreciate the cooperation of all supporters regarding this matter. Cash MachinesThere are no cash machines inside Emirates Stadium. There is a Barclays Bank cash point situated on Drayton Park next to the Arsenal Box Office. Food and DrinkFood within reason is allowed into the Stadium. Soft drinks in small plastic bottles and flasks are also allowed. Aluminium cans and alcohol are NOT allowed into the Stadium. WaterTap water is freely available from the concessions .

Please queue in the normal way and on request you will be given a plastic cup of water. Babies/ChildrenWe do not recommend that babies or young children come to Emirates Stadium as a crowded environment is not in our opinion the best place for them. nfinity backpack canadaHowever if you do decide to bring a baby or young child with you they will need a ticket. goplug backpackWhilst we appreciate they would sit on a lap there needs to be a physical space for them in the Stadium. powerbag backpack for saleThey must also be able to sit unaided in a tip up seat.mcys backpack Lifts access There are eight lifts in Emirates Stadium, two in each quadrant.

The lifts are only to be used by people with mobility problems. On arrival to the Stadium please speak to one of the stewards who will help you with this. Crutches Crutches are allowed into the Stadium, they should be placed safely underneath your seat. However, if your leg is in plaster cast and you are unable to bend it unfortunately you will not be able to sit in your seat as you can cause an obstruction.Cameras/Video camerasCameras and video cameras are allowed to be brought into the Stadium but due to copyright laws they can not be used when players are on the pitch. This also includes the players warm up session.Suitcases/ Luggage storagePlease click here to read our full policy on bags, suitcases and luggage.  Perfume/ AerosolsAerosol sprays are NOT allowed into the Stadium, they will be confiscated upon entry. Air horns attached to aerosol cans are also NOT allowed. Perfumes can be brought into the Stadium however they will be temporarily confiscated by the steward who can store it for you and return it at the end of the match.

Lost Property If you lose any personal items at Emirates Stadium on a matchday please contact the Stadium Management department on 020 7704 4030 or stadium@arsenal.co.uk Monday to Friday between 9am and 5pm. Cycle Parking Arsenal have a cycle parking facility, it is next to the All Arsenal Shop on Drayton Park. It holds up to 150 bicycles. Please speak to the security guard at Highbury House reception who will be able to assist you with this.  Road closuresOn a matchday a number of local roads around the perimeter of the Stadium are closed 2 hours before kick off. The roads remain closed throughout the match and do not reopen until approximately 45 minutes to 1 hour after the final whistle depending on activities outside the Stadium. If you require any advice with regards to drop off and pick up points please contact the Stadium Management department on 020 7704 4030 or stadium@arsenal.co.uk Monday to Friday between 9am to 5pm.Q: What do nerdy backpackers say when they get a little bit too excited about making their own gear?

I'd wanted a pulk (or ahkio, as they are called in Lapland) for some time, and while the professional Fjellpulken pulks really look the part, they are pretty heavy (over 7.5kg with poles and harness), and very expensive – from around €700 for an X-Country, to over €1700 for a Transport 401: a little bit outside my budget. A lot, in fact.While there is a time and a place for a hardcore pulks, in the gently rolling landscape of Finland they are a little bit overkill for all but the most extreme trips or situations.Luckily, there's a well-known alternative that you can make yourself using a Paris Expedition sled, and some ingenuity. It may not have all the bells and whistles of a Fjellpulken, but for the kind of "expeditions" I get up to at the moment, I was confident it would be more than enough.Let me show you how to make one! I should begin by saying that none of this is my idea. , where you can also buy  parts to make your own Paris Expedition more advanced pulk.I like to keep things simple, so the pulk I made is the most basic, hassle-free version to be found in the booklet: a simple pipe pulk.

This is just about the easiest MYOG project you can imagine. It takes virtually no skill (high on my list of priorities) and is really cheap. If you live somewhere with a half-decent amount of snow, it's worth making just for the fun of it and the sense of achievement – not to mention the satisfaction at having saved €700.Here's what you need: (Note: I made two at the same time, so the image above shows additional materials) 1 x Paris Expedition pulk About 10m of 8mm cord 2 x carabiners (or similar) 2 x lengths of 12-15mm (1/2 inch) conduit A short 20cm length of guy cord I got my Paris Expedition from Globetrotter.de for €39.99. I read you can get them direct from the manufacturer, EraPro in the US/Canada, though you might have to buy as a group. In Finland they are available also from Varuste.net. The cord cost around €5, the carabiners €4, and the conduit €4.80. So the total cost for the basic pulk was €53.79! Quite a considerable saving over a Fjellpulken.

There is a cheaper Paris Expedition made out of a lighter material, but I think it's better to stick with something that has a little rigidity to it. The first thing to do is thread the cord around the pulk, using the holes that are already provided. The reason for this is that you will distribute the pulling force over the whole pulk, rather than just at the two front holes. When you've threaded the rope all the way around, pull it through  so you have about 2.5m (8.2ft) coming from each of the grommeted holes on the front – although the length of the poles will be shorter, you need some additional play for knots. At this point it's a good idea to set fire to stuff. Or at least to burn the ends of the cut rope, to stop them from fraying. The first knot you need to tie is right outside the grommet where the rope enters the pulk. This is to stop the cord slipping in and out of the hole. A double overhand will do the trick. Next you need to measure and cur your poles.

The purpose of the poles is to stop the pulk sliding into your back when stopping or going downhill. They need to be long enough so that the tail end of your skis don't slap the pulk as you go. You can find out the approximate length by setting up your skis, and measuring from your hip to the tail of your ski, and then adding some extra to be on the safe side. It's good not to have the poles too long, so you have more control in confined areas. The SkiPulk .pdf suggests 6 ft / 182cm to be a good length. I cut mine to 190cm. The conduit is cut easily with a hacksaw. Feet the cord through the conduit, and tie a loop (I used a figure eight on a bight), keeping it as close to the conduit exit as possible. This was the only trick part as it necessitates keeping the pole in place and tying the knot. You could ask someone to hold the pole, and you can always tighten or reposition the knot later if it has too much play. When you use the pulk, the poles are crossed to provide more maneuverability.

To keep them together, tie a small loop around them, about half way along their length. You can also duct tape this loop to one of the poles to keep it in position if you want. All you need now is to attach the loops to your harness. As I'm an inveterate cheapskate, I thought I'd have a look at my collection of backpacks to see if I could use any of the hipbelts. Lo and behold, my Granite Gear Vapor Trail (now known as the Crown A.C.) has an excellent removable hipbelt with stitched webbing perfect for attaching the carabiners. If you don't have a suitable belt, Globetrotter has a simple harness on sale which will do the job nicely. It was time for a test! After a quick ski around the park, I grabbed the first person I could find and headed off to find a trail. Although my passenger weighed a scant 12kg (26.5 lb), she seemed satisfied with the smoothness of the ride, until she got a bit fed up and decided she wanted to walk. Until that point we had been skiing along a relatively clear trail, so I thought I'd head "off-piste".

At first, my Madshus Eons coped pretty well with the light, fluffy snow we get here. But soon, I got that familiar sinking feeling, where one has to break some serious trail. Around this point I seriously started to wonder whether I should get some Madshus Annums, which sound a lot more suitable for backcountry skiing in fluff: "The 2013 Madshus Annum backcountry skis (formerly Karhu XCD Guide) are the result of many requests from serious backcountry skiers for a waxless, full-metal edge backcountry touring ski that is ultra-fat to absolutely float on super deep soft snow and/or fresh powder when breaking trail and ripping telemark turns on the downhills." I'd previously thought the Annum's would be overkill, but that description (apart form the bit about ripping telemark turns) seems to accurately describe what I encounter regularly up here. I'd be interested if any Annum users out there can comment. Anyway, it was fun, and I decided to make an additional modification to the sled.

When testing in the park, I used my toolbox as a load. It fell out on more than one occasion when turning in deep snow. When you're attached to poles and on skis, having to faff around putting things back in a pulk is not particularly enjoyable, so I returned to tke SkiPulk .pdf for advice on adding a load retention system. I decided to go for the simple shock cord solution, which is very simple, but has a clever modification that enables you to easily load the pulk without having to take off your gloves to tie knots. First, drill sets of two holes near the existing holes in the pulk, then use the hacksaw to cut entry points so you can slip the cord in easily. Drill two single holes at the front of the pulk. Feed one end of the shock cord into one of these holes and tie a knot under the rim to stop it coming out. Then feed the rope in a criss-cross pattern around the pulk, thus: You don't have to pull everything really tight - just enough to make sure it's not loose.